Spring Renovating and Overseeding Your Lawn

–          Spring is the time to repair damaged lawns.

–          Get your grass thick and healthy to prevent weeds from invading your lawn.

–          With the abundant spring rains, now is the time to reseed the bare and thin spots in your lawn.

–          Shady areas seeded in early spring can establish before the trees have full leaf canopies.

 

 

Renovatingif your lawn is more than 50% weeds and dead grass.

It is best to eliminate all living matter by using a non-selective herbicide such as Round Up.

 

Overseeding– if your lawn is less than 50% dead grass and weeds and your existing lawn is thin.

 

  1. Remove all excess debris and assess your lawn identifying spots that need reseeding.

 

  1. If soil is compacted or has a half inch or more of thatch buildup, core aerate area to break up the thatch layer and to loosen the soil so the roots can better absorb moisture and nutrients.  The cores should be 2-3 inches deep and 3 inches apart.  Aerators are available at many hardware, garden centers and rental stores.

 

  1. For overseeding, plant grass seed with a slit seeder 1/8 inch deep. Seed to soil contact is very important for success. Do not plant seed more than 1/4 inch deep.

 

  1. When seeding bare spots, loosen soil to 1/2 inch with a rake, spread seed and gently rake seed into the soil.  Cover with straw or pelletized mulch on sloped areas.  The earlier in spring you reseed the area, the better jump you will get on weed growth.

 

  1. New seeding of large areas, will have best results by planting your lawnseed at half the rate each in a north/south then an east/west direction.  This will give you a uniform blanket of grass.

 

  1. Apply a starter fertilizer at the rate of 3-4 lbs/1000 Sq. Ft.

 

  1. Apply irrigation daily so the top ½ inch of soil stays moist until the area is mowed one time. Minimum of 4 weeks of daily irrigation to allow Kentucky Bluegrass to germinate. When the area is mowed once, irrigation should be applied less frequently at higher rates to get the root system to grow deeper.

 

  1. Begin mowing once the first seedlings reach a height of 2 to 2 ½ inches to allow light to reach the slower germinating species.  When overseeding, continue to mow the existing lawn at 2 to 2 ½ inches.  After 6 weeks, raise mowing height to 2 ½ to 3 inches. Never mow more than 1/3 of the leaf blade in a mowing.

 

*Mower blades should be freshly sharpened every spring to prevent tearing and ripping out of the ground of new seedlings by dull mower blades.

 

  1. 9.  Never apply crabgrass or broadleaf weed control products to newly seeded or reseeded areas until they have been mowed at least three times.

Winter burn is discoloration resulting from plants not able to take up moisture from the ground because of our harsh winter and the frozen ground.  This can cause needles or leaves of evergreens to dry out.

Evergreens can loose moisture through their leaves or needles in the winter months.  When the ground is frozen, the plants’ roots cannot absorb the moisture it needs.  Add some sunny days thru the winter and evaporation increases.  Discolored or “burned” foliage may start to appear.  This discoloration usually appears on the side of the plant facing the sun or the side with exposure to the wind.  Please note, this can also occur with plants too close to a dryer or furnace vent.

Please be patient with these plants.  Make sure they have adequate water and wait to trim until new growth appears.

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Nulla consequat massa quis enim. Donec pede justo, fringilla vel, aliquet nec, vulputate eget, arcu. In enim justo, rhoncus ut, imperdiet a, venenatis vitae, justo. Nullam dictum felis eu pede mollis pretium. Integer tincidunt. Cras dapibus. Vivamus elementum semper nisi. Aenean vulputate eleifend tellus. Aenean leo ligula, porttitor eu, consequat vitae, eleifend ac, enim.

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